Ok,
so i did the DI sections pretty quickly, they went together really easily - just like an expensive lego kit really.
a couple of things i'd like you guys with some experience with these modules to help me out with :
- i've never used the ribbon cables before, do the connectors go together as easily as they seem? no tricks?
- i'm planning on building one module, then testing it with the power supply before i go on and build the other three (i'd rather wreck one board than four if i've made some boo boos ya know?). Should i do anything special or take anything into consideration when hooking one module up to the psu rather than all four?
-if anyone wanted to post or send me some close up pictures of their individual modules, i would be very much indebted.
If i can get this box working, my next project will be some kind of vocal chain with pre-eq-comp. Joe showed me some really cool builds that he's got coming out soon - we will all be busy little soldering monkeys.
Cheers, todd.
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Building My Fisrt BA's
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Toddd
Good thinking there.
Re: the ribbon cable. Somewhere in the Baby Animal build thread on Prodigy http://www.prodigy-pro.com/forum/viewto ... aby+animal
is some close up pics Matt posted of how to do the ribbon cable. I think it's in the first 12 or so pages, but have a ferret around there and you'll find it. EDIT found it - http://www.prodigy-pro.com/forum/viewto ... &start=165
(From memory, putting the cable in backwards does nasty things to the opamp on the DI board, by supplying 24V to the opamp at points where it shouldn't getting it. But I could be wrong, although I did go through an opamp or two myself before I got it right. Follow the pics and you'll be sweet :D).
That thread has lotsa pics of builds, including mine somewhere. Some of us have also posted pics of our builds here. (see http://www.turtlerockmastering.com/foru ... .php?t=610)
There's no issue in hooking up one module now and the rest later. That's exactly what I've done. The PSU you will have has enough juice to power anywhere from 1 to 4 to possibly more.
Good thinking there.
Re: the ribbon cable. Somewhere in the Baby Animal build thread on Prodigy http://www.prodigy-pro.com/forum/viewto ... aby+animal
is some close up pics Matt posted of how to do the ribbon cable. I think it's in the first 12 or so pages, but have a ferret around there and you'll find it. EDIT found it - http://www.prodigy-pro.com/forum/viewto ... &start=165
(From memory, putting the cable in backwards does nasty things to the opamp on the DI board, by supplying 24V to the opamp at points where it shouldn't getting it. But I could be wrong, although I did go through an opamp or two myself before I got it right. Follow the pics and you'll be sweet :D).
That thread has lotsa pics of builds, including mine somewhere. Some of us have also posted pics of our builds here. (see http://www.turtlerockmastering.com/foru ... .php?t=610)
There's no issue in hooking up one module now and the rest later. That's exactly what I've done. The PSU you will have has enough juice to power anywhere from 1 to 4 to possibly more.
-

astrovic - Regular Contributor

- Posts: 280
- Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:57 am
- Location: Geelong
cheers for the quickness astro...
i have looked at the turtlerock thread from last year a couple of times, but looking at chris' build photo just answered a question i was wondering about already...
if the least i do is fry a di opamp on my first go, i'll be happy
i have looked at the turtlerock thread from last year a couple of times, but looking at chris' build photo just answered a question i was wondering about already...
if the least i do is fry a di opamp on my first go, i'll be happy
- toddd
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- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:46 pm
- Location: sydney
a tip for ya...
if your in Dick Smith/Jaycar etc, grab a pack of 10R carbon resistors. There's a 10R on the BA main board in directly after the 48V input point - from memory its there to act as a failsafe, kinda like a fuse. From memory carbon is better than metal film - Joe has explained why in the past.
If you were to, say, wire up your DC input connector backwards (now who would do something silly like that :oops: ), the 10R will blow. There's a couple of other mistakes that will blow, so it might be handy to have a couple of spares on hand, rather than having to down tools and go get some more :)
(You'll know if it blows - it goes black!)
if your in Dick Smith/Jaycar etc, grab a pack of 10R carbon resistors. There's a 10R on the BA main board in directly after the 48V input point - from memory its there to act as a failsafe, kinda like a fuse. From memory carbon is better than metal film - Joe has explained why in the past.
If you were to, say, wire up your DC input connector backwards (now who would do something silly like that :oops: ), the 10R will blow. There's a couple of other mistakes that will blow, so it might be handy to have a couple of spares on hand, rather than having to down tools and go get some more :)
(You'll know if it blows - it goes black!)
-

astrovic - Regular Contributor

- Posts: 280
- Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:57 am
- Location: Geelong
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